Painting the Ettin. Getting on with the contrast paints, this one is a hybrid of sorts.
Nor’Okk the Ettin by Reaper Miniatures. One of the original Bones models from the very first kickstarter in 2012. This means that is is made of the soft, bendy white pvc they originally used. This is also a showcase of that the softer material can work well for larger models. Even though many of the smaller (human-sized) Bones can be pretty bad what with soft and shallow details, the occational missing nose and noodles-for-weapons.
To the painting:
For this model, I wanted to try a more hybrid approach combining contrast paints with regular paint to see if there would be a glaring difference.
I basecoated in black with a zenithal grey on top. The zenithal was slightly spotty or grainy, and this affected the result alot as the contrast paints are transparent.
This model was rather cave-man like, so I gave them the classic Fred Flintstone look with orange furs with black spots. The furs were done in regular paints, CItadel Doombull Brown, Vallejo 72.009Hot Orange, Scalecolor Mars Orange and Citadel Squig Orange, with a slight bit of Reaper Warrior Flesh and Reaper Bright Flesh mixed in for the highlights and inverse details. The spots in thinned Vallejo 70.862 Black Grey.
The wooden clubs were mainly done in contrasts: Gore Grunta Fur and Templar Black straight onto the zenithal. Spikes and details in regular paints.
The skin was also mainly contrast: Darkoath Flesh and Guilliman Flesh, then drybrushed ever so slightly with regular paints after a day or two.
Note: Contrast paint rubs off easily and any drybrushing must be done with a lot of care.
The fish were done in gunmetal and then a stripe of vallejo black green ink, followed by (when dry) some dark quickshade ink to bring out the details.
I did not pay enough attention to the belly, as the contrast pooled a bit. This left an unsightly dark stripe at the bottom edge. I drybrushed carefully with some Reaper Warrior Flesh, and again with this mixed slightly lighter a couple of times to smooth it out and partially cover it. Turned out OK, even though the stripe can be seen if you look closely.
The rest of the details such as leg wrappings, chains, beard and faces are all done with regular paints.
This model should work well as a Berzerker in the Ogre army.
I used a 50mm round lipped base for this one.
Conclusion: Even though there is some shine in the contrast paints, most of the shine has been knocked back a notch or two by drybrushing with regular paint. A coat of varnish will also take care of that.
Apart from the shinyness, I think it worked rather well to combine the paints on this model. I am happy with the paint job, and happy to continue experimenting with different techniques to incorporate the contrast paints into my repertoire.
However; I experience alot mess with the paint pots, as the contrast paint dribbles down the sides of the pot when I take the lid off or on. Am I the only one or is this a common experience? Am I a cynic for thinking this might be a feature of the pot design to sell more?
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